Ancho-guajillo chile BBQ sauce

Ingredients
• 2 dried guajillo chiles
• 4 dried ancho chiles
• 2 cups boiled water
• 1 cup cold water
• ¼ cup apple cider vinegar
• ¼ cup lime juice
• ¼ cup tomato paste
• ¼ cup mezcal
• 2 tbsp molasses
• 3 tbsp (30 mL) brown sugar
• 1 small finely diced onion (about ½ cup/125 ml)
• 4 cloves minced garlic
• 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tsp dried Mexican oregano
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Instructions

Remove the stems and seeds from the chiles. The easiest was is to cut the top off and then make a slit down one side with a small, sharp knife then remove the seeds.

Heat a non-stick pan or comal on the stove. Lightly toast the chiles until they soften: no more than 30 seconds on each side. Be very careful not to char the chiles as it will make your sauce bitter.  Immerse the softened chiles into a bowl with the boiled water and let them sit for 20 minutes until they’re rehydrated.

In the meantime, prepare all the other ingredients so you’re ready to roll. Once the chiles are rehdryated, roughly chop them. Keep the soaking water.

In a medium saucepan, add all the ingredients including the chopped chiles plus ¼ of water or the soaking liquid if it’s not bitter. Bring to a boil then reduce to low and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Your sauce will go from a bright red to a deep reddish/brown and thicken up slightly. You don’t want to reduce it too much though because the sauce has to be pourable.

Remove from heat and let cool for a few minutes. Then pour it all into a blender and waz it up until you have a smooth sauce. Taste and adjust the seasonings. If it’s too thick, add a bit more of the soaking water. This sauce won’t be very spicy so if you want to add a bit more zing you can put in a pinch of chile powder.

This sauce is great on just about anything including grilled chicken, beef ribs, veggie burgers or whatever you feel like grilling up!

Beet and sweet potato soup

This is a hearty vegan soup that has a little warm heat from the delicate Kashmiri chile.  I love beets and this seemed like a great way to use them and sweet potatoes, which I’d also like use in more dishes.  And pink soup, woo hoo!

6 servings

Ingredients:

4 small beets

2-3 small sweet potatoes

1 onion

1 tsp whole cumin

1 tsp whole coriander

1 green cardamom pod

1” piece of ginger

4 cups veggie stock

1 tsp Kashmiri chile

4 tbsp oil

Salt

Peel the beets and sweet potatoes and cut into smallish pieces. There are two ways you can prepare them to get a deeper and richer flavour. One is to roast them in the oven: Heat oven to 375F. Sprinkle veg with oil and a tiny bit of salt. Wrap in a foil package and then roast for about 45 minutes.  

The second is to saute them in oil for a bit in a frying pan so they get a bit caramelized and soft around the edges, which takes about 15 minutes.

In the meantime, take the cumin, coriander, and seeds from the cardamom pod and grind them in a mortar & pestle or spice grinder. The flavours are best when freshly ground but you can always use already ground spices.  Finely chop or grate the ginger.

Dice the onion. Add 2 tbsp of oil to a medium sized pot and sautee the onions with a pinch of salt until just starting to brown. Then add the ground spices, ginger, and chile and fry for just a minute.

Add the veggie stock and roasted vegetables. Bring to the boil. Then lower the heat and simmer for about half an hour until the vegetables are soft. 

Remove from heat and blend until quite smooth. Adjust the seasoning. Serve with a small dollop of sour cream or cashew cream.

© Gail J Cohen 2018

Stuffed zucchini

This recipe is a bit of a variation on stuffed zucchini that my mom has made since I was a little kid. I love potatoes and think that little cubes of it are fantastic in this rich and lemony tomato sauce, so I added them and the mint and chile flakes to zip it up a bit.

You can make this dish vegan by skipping the ground beef and using more rice and more of the zucchini innards for your stuffing. You an also add some slices of eggplant to the sauce to give it more texture. (Be sure to salt them first).

Serves 4

Ingredients

4 fat zukes

1 onion, finely chopped

1 tbsp tomato paste

2 tomatoes, sliced thickly

1 cup passata

250 g ground beef

3 tbsp chopped parsley

1/3 cup cooked rice

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 potatoes, cut into small cubes

2 tbsp chopped fresh mint

Pinch of chile flakes

Juice of half a lemon

4 tbsp olive oil

Salt and pepper

Carefully cut the zukes in half and scoop out the inside. Be careful to get as much of the flesh as you can but not to make any holes in the skin. Roughly chop and then reserve the pulp. Put the zukes aside.

To prepare the filling, heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a medium-sized frying pan. Add half the onions and sautee for a few minutes until they start to turn brown. Add half the garlic and sautee for another minute.

Add the ground beef to the pan and brown. Add the tomato paste, about 1/3 of the chopped zucchini pulp, rice, mint, parsley, chile flakes, salt and pepper. Then add about 1/3 cup of water so your tomato paste has enough liquid to mix well into the other ingredients. Cook the whole mixture for about 10-12 minutes until it’s just cooked.  Put aside to cool.

In a large, flat-bottom oven-proof pot (it needs to be big enough to lay out your zukes as well as go in the oven), heat up the remainder of the olive oil. Sautee onions and garlic as above.

Turn the heat down to med-low. Carefully add the passata so you don’t get splattered. Lay the tomato slices (and eggplant if you're using it) on the bottom of the pot, add the rest of the chopped zucchini pulp, lemon juice, potato cubes, salt, and pepper. Bring to the boil.

In the meantime, take the cooled filling and carefully spoon it into the zucchini shells.

Place the stuffed zukes on top of the vegetable mixture in the pot and reduce the temperature to low.Simmer covered for about 20 minutes.

Pre-heat the oven to 350F.  After 20 minutes, turn off the burner and remove the cover from the pot. Put the pot in the oven uncovered to cook for about another 20 minutes. 

When it's ready, the dish should be a bit brown on top, and the veggies (particularly the potaotoes) all soft. Depending on the water content of the zukes, you may want to remove them from the sauce and boil it down for a thicker sauce or just serve it as is.

Serve with rice, smothered in the rich cooking sauce. Add salt and pepper to taste.

© Gail J. Cohen 2018

Vegan basil hemp pesto

I've been cooking but not writing about it much lately. Trying to get back on track. The fall harvest is a great time to do it! Here's one for the gardeners (and the vegans).

If you're like me, you tend to grow basil in your garden in the summer and there's only so much of it you can use before the frost get it. Pesto is one of the greatest ways to use up large amounts of the fresh stuff. And making it takes hardly any time at all.

And this recipe mixes it with one of my favourite (and local!) seeds: hemp, which have an extraordinary nutty flavour that is enhanced by toasting the seeds before making the mixture. Add a little hemp oil to ratchet up that nuttiness. The fresh parsley, which is likely also in your garden, adds a bit of herby lightness.

Yield:  1.5 cups

Ingredients

1/2 cup hemp seeds

3 loosely packed cups of fresh basil leaves

1 sprig fresh Italian parsley

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and sliced

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

3 tbsp cold pressed hemp oil

2 tbsp nutritional yeast

1/2 tsp salt

fresh ground pepper

Toast the hemp seeds in a non-stick pan on medium heat. It will seem like it takes a while but keep your eyes on it at all times because the seeds will go from not toasted to burnt in about 30 seconds. The toasting shouldn't take more than about 5-6 minutes depending on the pan you're using. Cool before making the pesto.

Clean the basil and parsley, making sure it's mostly dry before continuing on.

Add all the ingredients into a food processor. Blend for about a minute making sure the garlic is all chopped and it is quite smooth and creamy. Check the seasonings and voila. 

Use it on pasta, add cream/cream substitute if you want to make a creamy sauce, use it dressing for salads, etc.  It'll keep in the fridge for about a week but you can also freeze it in ice cube trays and save it for later when you're yearning for some garden freshness in the middle of winter.

© Gail J. Cohen 2017

Market tales from Goa

Spice seller at the market in Vasco de Gama, Goa, India

I came to India for some work meetings and wasn't going to come all this way and not stay and experience a bit of the country for at least a few days. And what better way to experience it all than through food, of course! I found a cooking course in Goa (on the west coast in what is the top of what is considered South India). And in case you weren't aware, South India means cooking with coconut!

Vasco de Gama at the pin!

But before cooking began, it was time for a trip to some of the local markets in Vasco de Gama. There are five main markets: vegetables and staples; fish; chicken and eggs; beef; and pork. With the varying beliefs of the Hindus, Christians, and Muslims -- the largest religious groups in the area -- the meat markets needed to be split up to keep everyone happy and able to shop for their necessities.

It's pretty dry at this time of year and fresh herb prices are at a premium.

The first stop was the rudimentary "farmers' market" for veggies. Almost everything sold here is grown in Goa or neighbouring states. There's the occasional imported piece of fruit but it's more the exception than the rule, so people buy what's in season. The prices are fair and the produce fresh daily from the farmers.

The local garlic is tiny and sold both by the head and the clove. Lots of tumeric and ginger.

Almost all of it is pretty recognizable but with a local twist. The garlic here, for example, is extremely tiny. Tomatoes and onions are also much smaller than we are used to seeing in North America. The cucumbers are a very light shade of green and the gherkins for pickles are tiny and look more like little marrows than cucumbers. The pumpkins are slightly different (and the one we used, at least, was very sweet) and there is a very wide selection of gourds ranging from big and round to long and skinny.

Bags of dried spices, whole and ground, dotted the aisles along with a variety of rices including a brown rice found almost exclusively in South India.

Bergi chiles on the top and the fiery little kankons in the bottom basket.

Of course, for me, the icing on the cake is always discovering new chiles and Goa did not disappoint. A fiery little devil called kankon is used in both its fresh green form as well as dried. The other is a larger and longer one called bergi, a medium spicy chile that gives an orange tint to food when used in its dried format. Kankons are just coming into season and there aren't a lot of them around yet.

These are mostly dried bergis and Kashmiri chiles

I was also told that right now in the couple of hot months before the monsoon, the ladies are out buying dried chiles by the bucket load in order to grind and make their various masalas. During the monsoons, fresh chiles are hard to find so the dried and ground versions are used a lot more.

Veg purchased and never tried before but got cooked, eaten, tried, and likely won't be eaten again: bitter gourd (it's name is no exaggeration).

Bitter gourd takes centre stage.

Only visited the fish market, which is quite small but boasts catch made by local fishermen that day. Apparently the best time to get the optimal fish is early evening but we were there in the morning so had to settle for what was around. It did not smell delightful and took quite a bit of mind of matter to get me in there.

Some good sized prawns at the fish market.

The sellers were mainly women with a variety of prawns, crabs, squid, and mostly really small fish (including baby sharks!). Kingfish is the most popular fish in these parts. We left with prawns, crabs, and a kingfish. Got out just before a tidal wave of fishy water was about the wash over my feet. I don't think I would have survived.

Lots of little fish, that in my opinion shouldn't be legal to catch, but I don't make the laws.

We did get to walk down the street with a fish in a bag, mostly tail to the wind as the bag was a bit too tiny. Luckily there was a bucket in the trunk of the car to contain it on the way back to cooking school. Unfortunately I did not take a picture of the absurd fish tail.

Ingredients purchased, it was back for some cooking action. More on that later.

Mexican egg cups with roasted tomato and chile sauce

Sometimes you want something a little flavourful for breakfast (or even breakfast for dinner). Some members of our household (never me) go running on Sunday mornings and I tend to take that time to whip up a breakfast/brunch that’s a bit heartier and more complicated. Also if you’re just hosting friends for brunch and want a dish that will impress, give this recipe a try. These eggs in a spicy tomato sauce served in a crispy tortilla bowl look nice and offer up some delightful Mexican flavours.

As with many chile sauces, the chile you use defines the flavour. I’ve provided a few options below. You can really use any dried chile so explore something new. I like to use costeño amarillo, which I brought back from Oaxaca, Mexico. This doesn’t work as well with fresh chiles.

Yield: 2-4 servings

Ingredients

Chile sauce 

Makes 1.5 cups sauce

chiles*
1/2 onion
3 roma tomatoes or 2 dozen cherry tomatoes
2 cloves of garlic
1 tsp Mexican oregano
1/4 tsp freshly ground cumin
1/2 tsp of sugar
juice of half a lime
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp olive oil

* I used 3 costeno amarillo chiles (med spicy) – this would also work with 3 dried red chiles that you find in the stores (spicy), 2 guajillo chiles (fruity not too spicy), 1 pasilla chile (earthy not too spicy), 2 chipotle chiles (smokey and medium spicy)

4 fresh corn tortillas
4 eggs
1/2 cup grated cheese (cheddar, jack, queso fresco)
1/2 avocado, thinly sliced
Bit of finely chopped tomatoes or pico de gallo


To make tortilla bowls:

Preheat the oven to 350F.

Make sure your tortillas are soft and pliable so they don’t crack. If they are a bit dry, sprinkle them with water, wrap in a damp paper towel, and microwave for about 30 seconds.

Spray each tortilla all over with some cooking spray. Then manoeuvre the tortilla into an oven-proof dish (I used some onion soup bowls) so they’ll create a bowl. Bake for about 10 minutes until lightly browned and crispy. Set aside when ready. Don’t remove from the bowls.

To make the sauce:

Stem and seed the dried chiles. If using larger chiles, splitting them open so you can flatten them. Heat up a comal or a non-stick frying pan and dry roast the chiles in the pan. Heat them for about 20 seconds on each side, flattening with a spatula, so they get soft. Be very careful not to blacken the skin otherwise your sauce will be bitter. Wispy smoke is okay, more than that they’ll be burnt and bitter. Place the roasted chiles in a small bowl of boiling water for 20 minutes so they can rehydrate.

Thickly slice the onion. Put it along with the garlic with its skin still on, onto the comal or frying pan. Roast them until they are blackened on both sides. Put the tomatoes on as well. If you’re using larger ones, they’ll take a bit longer to roast. Turn them frequently until blackened all over. The cherry tomatoes won’t take very long. Let them get black on one side then roll over so they get another blackened area. Don’t let them burst open because it’s messy and you’ll lose most of the meaty good stuff.

With the garlic, once it’s ready put to the side and let cool, then slip off the skin. Put the other roasted ingredients as they’re ready into the jar of a blender. Add the cumin, oregano, salt, and sugar as well as the rehydrated chiles and 1/2 cup of the chile water. Blend it all together until you have a smooth, yet fairly thick sauce, about 3 minutes. If it’s too thick add a bit of plain or the chile water to thin it out a bit. Squeeze in the lime juice.

In a small sauce pan, heat the oil to a high heat. The sauce needs to really sizzle when you pour it in so test with just a drop to see if it’s hot enough. When it is, pour the sauce from the blender jar into the pot. It’ll sizzle and sputter a bit so watch out. Turn the temperature down to med-low and simmer the sauce for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. The colour will darken and the simmering allows the flavours to all blend together. If it begins to dry out and stick to the bottom of the pot, just add a bit of water.

Check for seasonings and let rest a few minutes while you bring it all together.

Bringing it all together:

Put the oven back on to 350F. Sprinkle the bottom of each tortilla cup with a pinch of cheese (or more if you desire). Put them back in the oven for 7 minutes or so until the cheese melts.

Cook the eggs. If you are an egg poacher, then knock yourself out and poach four eggs. If you prefer to fry them, then make it so. Cook them so the yolks remain soft and runny.

Once the cheese has melted, take the tortilla cups out and, if you prefer, remove them from the bowls you’ve cooked in and put on a plate. Gently place your soft eggs in the cup. Top with a generous dollop of the spicy tomato sauce. Garnish with the sliced avocado and tomato/pico.

Serve them up and enjoy.

© Gail J. Cohen 2017

Let's cook (and eat) together

There really are few things in the world that give me more pleasure than cooking and sharing interesting and delicious food with friends. A couple of years ago, I decided to host a dinner party at least once a month. It worked out fabulously and gave me the opportunity to cook some great stuff and connect with lots of friends. The only downside: lots of cleaning up.

A few months ago, someone mentioned the idea of a cookbook club, so I checked it out and thought it would be a great way to once again indulge in my love of cooking and sharing the table with friends, new and old. As you can see from the picture above, there's a lot of cookbooks in this house (most of them belong to my partner and this isn't even all of them....) 

So, for 2017, I am launching a cookbook club. 

The first rule of cookbook club is: Everybody cooks and everybody eats.

My plan is to have us meet once every couple of months. Pick a cookbook to discuss and make recipes out of. Then have a potluck type together and hang out and eat and drink. 

If you live in Toronto, especially the east end, and you're interested, leave a comment or find me on Instagram @ohcanadagail. Hoping to launch later this month or early February.